The first bakery I ever worked in was called The Bread Garden in Berkeley, Ca. It was way ahead of its time, predating legendary bakeries like Acme Bread in Berkeley, Ca and Bread Alone in Boiceville, NY. These were the bakeries that started making Artisanal european style breads before anyone in the US knew what they were. To Americans, bread was white, squishy, pre-sliced mediocrity found in the bread aisle at the grocery store.
David Morris, owner of The Bread Garden, died of cancer at the young age of 65 in April, 2013. He was one of the few certified Master Bakers in the US; a quirky, generous man with an interest in beekeeping, wine making and homebrewing beer. As a homebrewer myself, we shared an interest, and he shared his famous Malted Barley Bread recipe. David gave me my first bakery job, and I like to think Seven Stars wouldn’t be what it is without his influence over 20 years ago.
You hear about breads made with spent grain from the brewing process. Unfortunately, spent grain is just that. Spent. The first step in brewing happens in the mash tun. Adding water to malted barley, at the correct temperature, converts starch in the barley to sugar. This sugary liquid, called wort, is then run off into the kettle, boiled with hops, fermented and becomes beer. What is left in the mash tun is the spent grain. Lots of texture, but not much else. This spent grain is generally used as feed for cattle or pigs. David used the actual, sugary mash in a loaf of bread, something only a baker that was also a brewer would do! To this day, I’ve yet to see a “beer bread” recipe that uses this technique. I’ve taken Davids recipe and added a local twist. Not only is the mash added, but the majority of the water has been replaced with Barstool Golden Ale from Pawtuckets own Foolproof Brewery.
Malted Barley Bread is based on classic French Pain au Levain, but adds the mash from a pale ale and Foolproofs excellent session beer Barstool. The levain adds mild acidity balancing the sweetness and texture of the mash. The raw dough is rather sweet, but the finished loaf less so since the sugar created has been partially fermented in the same manner as the beer. This bread tastes like a brewery smells!
Raise a glass in honor of David as you eat this bread!
Heartland Organic Whole Wheat flour
Weyermann Pale Ale Malt
Foolproof Barstool Golden Ale